The 2005 Pinot Nero Il Girone offers up dried cherries, earthiness, tobacco and herbs in a rather forward style that suggests it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. This shows good length on the palate, even if the tannins dry out a touch on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2004 Pinot Nero Il Girone is an interesting red in that it clearly expresses more regional than varietal character. This sleek, elegant offering should drink well over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. This set of wines from Boccadigabbia is impressive. Boccadigabbia is a fascinating estate in that its roots stretch all the way back to the reign of Napoleon III. The custom of growing French grapes dates back to that period, which explains the estate’s success, particularly with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1996 the Alessandri family added to its holdings at Boccadigabbia with the purchase of the Villamagna estate, another property with a history that dates back hundreds of years. The wines are aged in French oak; neutral barrels are for the entry-level wines and new oak for the Pix and Akronte. These remain some of the most interesting wines being made in the Marche today.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2000 Il Girone is, surprisingly for this latitude, a Pinot Noir, and the berry fruit, the balsamic and leather notes, and the silky texture are authentically Pinot, though fuller and more alcoholic than examples from cool climate regions. A wine of character, released only in favorable years (the last previous vintage was 1996) and a medium ager. Boccadigabbia proved two important points in the 1990s. First, that superior wine can be produced in non-tradition areas of the Marches. Second, that a series of non-traditional grapes could also adapt themselves to the local climate and soil. In terms of the sheer variety of high class wines, this is the leading estate in the region and seems fully prepared to compete in a future which promises significantly more competition. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411