The 2008 Saltapicchio is an elegant and delicately perfumed red wine that is very generous with its bight aroma of wild berry, rose petal, licorice and balsam herb. The wine hits the palate with medium intensity and it follows through on the finish with bight acidity and more forest berry flavors.

The 2006 Sangiovese Saltapicchio is one of the most satisfying wines in this lineup from Boccadigabbia. Fresh ripe cherries, flowers, spices and minerals are some of the notes that flow from this generous, plummy Sangiovese. Everything is simply in the right place. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The estate’s 2005 Sangiovese Saltapicchio (Sangiovese, Merlot) offers up lovely complexity in its dark cherries, tobacco, earthiness and French oak. This pretty, harmonious wine from the Marche delivers plenty of quality for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. This set of wines from Boccadigabbia is impressive. Boccadigabbia is a fascinating estate in that its roots stretch all the way back to the reign of Napoleon III. The custom of growing French grapes dates back to that period, which explains the estate’s success, particularly with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1996 the Alessandri family added to its holdings at Boccadigabbia with the purchase of the Villamagna estate, another property with a history that dates back hundreds of years. The wines are aged in French oak; neutral barrels are for the entry-level wines and new oak for the Pix and Akronte. These remain some of the most interesting wines being made in the Marche today.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2004 Saltapicchio is a powerful, authoritative Sangiovese loaded with dark cherries, tar and underbrush. This big, muscular wine offers outstanding length and fine balance. It should drink well to at least age ten, perhaps beyond. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411