The 2009 Ribona Colli Maceratesi Le Grane is a pretty, floral white with excellent definition in its perfumed yellow fruits. Clean, mineral notes frame the generous, yet focused, finish. This beautiful white from the Marche should drink nicely for at least a few years. Towards the end of the fermentation a few bunches of over-ripe, fresh grapes are added to the must, a traditional practice in these parts that helps give the wine some of its textural depth. Ribona is yet another of Italy’s indigenous grapes; in this case found only in the province of Macerata. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2007 Colli Maceratesi Ribona Le Grane is a honeyed, generous white. Explosive aromatics lead to sensations of apricots and peaches as the wine gains breadth and volume in the glass. Towards the end of the fermentation a few bunches of freshly picked, slightly over-ripe grapes are added to the must to give the wine an additional measure of richness, following an old, traditional practice in these parts. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. This set of wines from Boccadigabbia is impressive. Boccadigabbia is a fascinating estate in that its roots stretch all the way back to the reign of Napoleon III. The custom of growing French grapes dates back to that period, which explains the estate’s success, particularly with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1996 the Alessandri family added to its holdings at Boccadigabbia with the purchase of the Villamagna estate, another property with a history that dates back hundreds of years. The wines are aged in French oak; neutral barrels are for the entry-level wines and new oak for the Pix and Akronte. These remain some of the most interesting wines being made in the Marche today.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411