The delicious 1996 white Codice is a blend of the perfumed Malvasia grape and the little-known northern Spanish varietal, Viura. This is an uncomplicated, fruity, cleanly made wine with medium body, good ripeness, and an excellent dry finish. Although it will not cause much cerebral activity, for pure value, it has few competitors. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (617) 461-5767

Historically, I have never been a fan of Spain's white wines, but modern technology (sometimes it does have its merits) has resulted in a bevy of stainless steel cold-fermented, quickly bottled Spanish white wines that are light-bodied, extremely pure, fresh, and aromatic. The 1995 Codice white (a blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia) may be Spain's answer to the highly successful white wines from France's Cotes de Gascogne. It is a dry, crisp, perfumed, light-bodied, deliciously fruity, fresh wine for drinking over the next six months. It is a noteworthy value, as well as an ideal aperitif or all purpose chicken/fish wine. This Rioja bodega must be one of the world's great value wineries. Readers may remember my ecstatic reviews of last year's releases, and I am just as thrilled about the new vintages. Readers depressed about the skyrocketing prices for well-known Italian, French, and Californian wines, should realize that Sierra Cantabria's wines offer spectacular relief from high prices. They are remarkable values Importer: Fine Estates From Spain, 75 Fox Meadow Lane, Dedham, MA 02026; tel. (617) 461-5767 and fax (617) 461-2570

The 1994 Sierra Cantabria white, a 90% Vieura and 10% Malvasia blend, offers up a floral, perfumed, fruity nose, loads of ripe fruit, light to medium body, some unreleased CO2 which gives the wine more freshness and crispness, and a zesty, dry finish. It is one of those lively, vibrant, dry white wines that should be drunk within a year of its release. Made by the Bodegas Sierra Cantabria, thIs wine is becoming hugely successful in the United States because of its undeniable value. It is a terrific value! Importer: Fine Estates From Spain, Jorge Ordonez, West Roxbury, MA; tel. (617) 327-1613