The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, bursting with aromas of pear, citrus oil, honeycomb, buttered toast and struck match. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's long and multidimensional, with racy acids and a penetrating, saline finish. From a small terrace above Montrachet, "La Cabotte" has been bottled separately since 1997.

Revisited in bottle, Bouchard's 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru has turned out beautifully, mingling aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, fresh peach, citrus oil, honeycomb and buttered toast—much as it did a year ago. Full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its textural attack segues into an ample, youthfully tightly wound mid-palate girdled by racy acids and underpinned by chalky structuring extract.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru is also showing very well from bottle, opening in the glass with a lovely bouquet of crisp green orchard fruit, citrus oil, white flowers, blanched almonds and wheat toast. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a deep and layered core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. While this can't quite match the mid-palate volume of the Montrachet, it certainly nods to Montrachet in style. Readers able to track down a few bottles should plan on exercising at least a decade's patience.

The 2016 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru has a similar bouquet to the regular Chevalier-Montrachet this year, albeit with a subtle oyster shell scent that surfaces with time. The palate is very poised and a little nuttier and more saline than the regular bottling, although for me it does not quite deliver the same precision right on the finish. It is a bit broody at the moment and maybe closer in style to the Montrachet. Three barrels produced (since the vines were less affected by frost).