From their monopole south of Teurons, Bouchard’s 2008 Beaune Clos de la Mousse leads with game and fresh cherry; offers tart fruit and ginger and white pepper pungency on a consequently invigorating yet silken-textured palate; and finishes with chalky notes that accentuate both the wine’s energetic and slightly austere aspects. It’s one of those 2008s that seems as though it would be Riesling if it could pass as white. This should keep well for a decade. Director-winemaker Philippe Prost made no attempt to minimize the challenges of 2008 and was careful to distinguish between its wind-borne concentration and genuinely ideal phenolic maturity (approached more nearly this year in white than red). He opined that the wide window afforded for relaxed picking despite the late calendar date was critical, since the levels of ripeness were so disparate from one site to another. That said, he showed me an outstanding collection of Pinots. Ironically, as he pointed out, ripeness was also disparate in one of the two earliest vintages on record, 2007, yet picking – while fitful – was anything but relaxed due to the pressure of rot. And here, too, Bouchard scored excellent successes. By means of, where necessary, “swapping lees” between barrels to inoculate stubborn lots, Prost says he was able to get all of his 2008s through malo-lactic conversion in timely fashion, which he considers especially important with Pinot. Bottling of the 2008 reds – with a few exceptions mentioned in my notes and due to have been bottled in April – took place in December and January, the same schedule adopted for their 2007s. I did not have an opportunity to taste nearly all of Bouchard’s vast collection from either vintage, and have in the text of my notes indicated a few from among their 2008s that I take to represent significant omissions. (I have not noted “Domaine” to distinguish those wines that are part of the Bouchard, except in cases where there is another otherwise eponymous wine.)Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

Bold brush strokes characterize this wine, the fruit a complex melange of red berries, acidity and weight. The wine has good density, offering a strawberry jam character to go with the fresh edge. Tannins are enveloped in the fruits, promising medium-term aging. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 91

An intriguing wine, that offers ripe sweetness followed by an edgy rustic acidity. Is this a stage in its evolution? Probably, because the tannins promise aging and the intensely aromatic nature of the fruit points to a potentially fine wine. Just don’t drink it yet.——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 89

A terroir-driven wine, with its earthy aromas and its foursquare fruit structure. It has power, an engine of fruit, sweet tannins and flavors of cranberries and wild strawberries, all supported by considerable structure. The aftertaste is luscious.——R.V.(8/1/2008)—— 94

Fresh, woodsy aromas lead to a palate packed with cranberry and red currant flavors. Delicate and restrained, with woody tannins that give it a rustic yet elegant feel.——R.V.(9/1/2004)—— 88