The 2010 Barbaresco Asij is a highlight thanks to the chiseled mineral tones that frame the wine’s inner fruit. The wine shows great structure and lingering tones of dried cherry, leather, cola and tobacco that build in momentum. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2023. Ceretto is a landmark estate and a world ambassador that has done much to teach Barolo appreciation around the world. Not only do they jealously safeguard their well-earned reputation for top-notch wines, but the various generations that have managed this historic winery understood sooner than most that the Langhe must also be developed to attract trouists. The various estates they own are adorned with massive projects of modern art and innovative buildings that make for irresistible touring destinations. As I write this report, I am looking out my window at the Ceretto glass “cube” that sits so regally on the crest of the Bricco Rocche cru above Castiglione Falletto. I have been taunted, nostalgically, each evening by the distant music and laughter emanating from that fascinating architectonic beacon of light and aspiration. Back to the wines: Ceretto is a brand of consistent high scores and accolades. But the 2009 vintage represents something of a lull for this venerated producer. I did not encounter the same clarity of voice or conviction of message that past vintages have delivered. My hope is that this is indeed a temporary lull. Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2009 Barbaresco Asij is a beautiful, fragrant wine with a little more depth and polish than is typically the case. Layers of fruit flow through to an effortless, gracious finish laced with a hint of French oak. This supple, juicy Barbaresco is best suited for drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. It’s great to see Ceretto – one of Piedmont’s iconic families – doing so well after a lackluster period in the 1990s and early 2000s. Ceretto’s top 2009 Barbareschi are easily among the very best of the year. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

A pretty red, sporting rose, cherry, tobacco and spice aromas and flavors. Bright, well-proportioned and elegant in profile. Lingering, spicy finish. Best from 2013 through 2025. 4,500 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barbaresco Select to Add

Ceretto’s 2008 Barbaresco Asij is a straightforward wine with expressive up-front fruit and an accessible personality. It shows excellent depth in its dark red cherries, plums and spices. There is plenty of grip on the finish for a wine of this size, but it remains a medium-bodied Barbaresco made in a style best suited to near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661