The vintage of this wine predates the creation of the Sicilia DOC and is therefore listed as an IGT wine. The 2011 Nerello Mascalese is made with fruit from very old vines, ranging from 80 to 100 years old from the Calderara Sottana and Taccione vineyards at 680 and 730 meters in elevation, respectively. A tiny 2% of Nerello Cappuccio is present in this blend from a warm vintage with dry winds blowing up from Africa. The wine shows rich concentration and dense fruit weight (with a 15% alcohol content); however, the quality of fruit is not faded or too evolved. In fact, this wine still has lots of energy and brightness locked within its heavy texture. Some 15,000 bottles were produced, and Calabretta gives us good reason to believe in the long-term prospects of an Etna red.

From the Calderara Contrada near Randazzo on Mt. Etna, Calabretta’s red shows pungent aromas of apple skin, licorice and raw fruit. There’s a volatile element to the nose that is a bit overwhelming at first. ——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 85

More than 10 years following the harvest, this expression from Mt. Etna is on the decline. There are pungent apple aromas that keep it going and the wine’s alcoholic power fuels persistency, but ultimately there’s not enough natural fruit left. ——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 84