The 2015 Beaune 1er Cru Les Avaux has a tightly wound bouquet, a mixture of blackberry and raspberry fruit, leaning towards the latter as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet entry, candied red berry fruit intermingling with orange rind and just a hint of cocoa, fanning out nicely towards the long finish. This is worth checking out - there is a sense of feistiness here that draws you in.

From their own parcel of 45-year-old vines, the 2012 Beaune 1er Cru Les Avaux has a pretty, serious bouquet that needs to let its hair down by the time of bottling. The tannins feel firm but not overbearing in the mouth and are nicely intertwined with the fresh, bright red cherry fruit. There is an elegance and charm to this Beaune wine and it will be well worth looking out for. Maison Camille Giroud is one of Burgundy’s stalwarts that can trace its roots back to 1886. I became acquainted with their wines in the 1990s and to be truthful they languished behind their peers: rather rustic fare that might have been acceptable in the 1970s, but not any longer. When a group of investors, including Ann Colgin and Joe Wender, bought Camille Giroud in 2002, they sought a young, talented winemaker to take the negociant by the scruff of the neck and kick-start a renaissance. That is exactly what happened when David Croix was hired as regisseur in 2005. Most of the fruit is contracted, though like Albert Bichot across the road, David prefers not to distinguish them from the two crus that are owned by the estate. David manages the vineyards and has summarized his policy: one contracted grower per cru in order to articulate a sense of place. “The wines from Camille Giroud tend to be more delicate than Domaine des Croix,” David explained, “and need less barrel aging. They tend to show red fruit, more cherries than my own wines.” In 2012, there are far fewer crus to choose from since yields were down 50% and some significant contracts, the likes of Latricieres-Chambertin and Corton Clos des Roi, were cancelled in their entirety since there was no fruit, which after all is helpful if you want to make wine. Still, what David Croix has managed to eke out from a challenging season is worth seeking out: refined and feminine wines that make up in freshness what might be missing in complexity. Plus they succeed in expressing their terroir as David always intends. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

The 2009 Beaune Les Avaux is intensely floral and mineral in the glass, with notable brilliance and transparency in its fruit. This shows gorgeous inner tension all the way through to the clean, resonant finish where mint and floral notes reappear, adding the final layers of complexity. The Avaux is made from a variety of parcels, some of which Giroud farms directly. Tasted from barrel. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted at Camille Giroud. While top selections are hugely successful, readers should also pay attention to the village wines, which deliver plenty of character at accessible prices. Most of the wines are made from purchased fruit sourced from growers with whom the winery has long term relationships. The harvest took place between the 8th and 15th of September. Sugar levels were higher than in 2005. Macerations were on the long side in 2009, and ranged from 19-24 days versus the more typical 12-17. Most of the wines were made from 100% destemmed fruit, although a few selections - the Corton-Rognets and Chambertin in particular - saw some whole bunches. Malos were completed between February and April 2010 and the wines were not racked during their aging. Bottling began just after harvest 2010 for some of the early maturing reds, but most of the wines were still in barrel at the time of my visit in late February, with the exception of the Grands Crus, most of which had been racked into steel and were awaiting bottling towards the end of March. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Willette Wines, NJ; tel. (917) 400-2238; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640