This wine is fresh and clean, with bright acids that cleanse the palate. It’s not especially powerful in fruit, with suggestions of citrus, apple and peach, and snaps to an abrupt finish.——S.H.(2/1/2004)—— 84

The attractive, fleshy, tropical fruit-scented and flavored 1997 Chardonnay Sangiacomo Vineyard carries its 13.8% alcohol well. With excellent fruit, this is an easy to understand and consume Chardonnay with the oak present, but not overdone.Tel. (707) 996-5870; Fax (707) 996-5302

I am perplexed by the Carmenet wines. On the positive side, they possess elegance and finesse, but on the negative side, they are extremely tannic, and too high in acidity. Their leanness and austerity are at odds with the notion that wine is a beverage of pleasure. I thought the 1996 Chardonnay Sangiacomo was an attractive, well-made, straightforward Chardonnay presented in a medium-bodied, easy-going format.It needs to be drunk over the next year.Tel. (707) 996-5870; Fax (707) 996-5302

Carmenet's 1993 Chardonnay Sangiacomo is a beefy, full-bodied, oaky Chardonnay with plenty of fruit and wood. It is hard to find Chardonnay of this quality and richness for under $20 a bottle. Drink it over the next year.Tel. (707) 996-5870