The 2004 Sant’Antimo Mandrielle (100% Merlot) reveals much more Tuscan personality than varietal character in its smoke, underbrush, black cherries, jammy blueberries, wild herbs and mint. It comes across as somewhat compact and austere, with hard tannins that clamp down on the finish. From a consumer’s standpoint I have a hard time understanding a wine like this. There is no shortage of better-priced and frankly more expressive Merlots to be found throughout the world, not to mention any number of more satisfying wines from Tuscany at similar or lower price points. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Banfi makes a wide range of internationally-styled wines from its vast holdings in and around Montalcino. Importer: Banfi Vintners, Glen Head, NY; tel. (516) 626-9200

This boasts thick, sun-drenched notes of mature fruit, intense spice and moist earth. The wine’s nose is slightly stewy in essence and has some medicinal qualities on the finish. Drink it with pasta and ground beef ragu.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 89