The 2009 Gran Claustro is a complex blend of 42% Pinot Noir, 42% Chardonnay, 6% Xarello and 5% each Macabeo and Parellada aged for 15 months in bottle before being disgorged. It feels a bit shy and backward, with serious aromas of fennel, aniseed, apple pie and yeasts. The palate is fresh, with a silky texture provided by the carbonic gas and good acidity with clean flavors. A pleasant, textbook Cava. Drink now-2016. Castillo de Perelada is a large winery in Emporda which also produces some sparkling wines under the Cava appellation. Importer: Perelada Comercial MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY; tel. (516) 869-9170

The 2008 Cava Gran Claustro is a blend of 43% Pinot Noir, 43% Chardonnay and 14% Parellada sourced from 40-year-old vines and spends 15 months in bottle before disgorgement with no added sugar. This is a traditionally made Cava that is riddled by hand. It has an agreeable, comparatively intense bouquet of bruised apple and light honeyed notes with hints of tangerine emerging with aeration. The palate has impressive weight for a Cava, with that honeyed trait continuing in the mouth married with fine acidity. It is harmonious and long, a Cava with substance and style. Drink now. Castillo Perelada is the most significant winery in Emporda. I have comprehensively covered their dry wines in the “Catalonia” report, but they produce two well-priced Cavas. Importer: Perelada Comercial, NY; www.perladacomercial.com

The 2007 Gran Claustro is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, and 20% Parellada aged on its lees for 24 months. Tiny bubbles and excellent aromatics lend an air of sophistication to this well-made offering. Concentrated flavors, excellent volume, and impeccable balance form the suave personality of this lengthy Cava. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Castillo Perelada’s finest wines are their deluxe still wine cuvees from the DO of Emporda where their magnificent estate (a must for tourists) is located. However, they also produce very good Cavas in a variety of styles. Rose Cava is a wonderful match for Spain’s great hams and Castillo Perelada makes several. Importer: Perelada USA; www.castilloperelada.com

The 2006 Gran Claustro Brut Nature is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 30% Xarel-lo, and 20% Parellada which spent 24 months in bottle before disgorging. Light gold-colored, the Chardonnay component shows through in the attractive, complex aromatics. Surprisingly rich and voluminous on the palate, this flavorful, lengthy effort will offer pleasure over the next 2-3 years. As Champagne prices have soared due to the weak dollar, Cava sales have taken off dramatically. Concurrently, the quality of Cava seems to have improved noticeably over the past several years so the new popularity of Cava may not be just a passing fancy. The Cavas del Castillo Perelada portfolio offers solid quality at fair prices. Importer: Perelada; www.castilloperelada.com