Showing slightly more character and depth, the 2012 Cotes du Rhone Massif d’Uchaux Jocundaz (80/20 Grenache and Syrah, also aged all in concrete) offers pretty berry fruit, crushed flowers and spice in a medium-bodied, supple and fresh package. Possessing good fruit and sweet tannin, it should drink nicely for 4-5 years. Drink now-2018. This small estate is run by Jean-Pierre Serguier, and covers 10 acres in Chateauneuf du Pape, mostly in the northwestern section of the appellation. He produces two red cuvees in top vintages, his classic blend (reviewed here) and a Grenache-dominated Grandes Grenachieres d’Hyppolyte. All three of the Cotes du Rhones reviewed here were well made and show good all-around character. In addition, his whites are superb.

A sleeper of the vintage, the deep ruby/purple-colored 2011 Cotes du Rhone Jocundaz Massif d-Uchaux offers lots of pepper, garrigue, black raspberries and black cherries in a medium-bodied, nicely concentrated, silky style. Consume it over the next 2-3 years. This tiny 10-acre estate run by Jean-Pierre Serguier produces 1,500 cases of Chateauneuf du Pape and around 350 cases of their super, old vine cuvee, Les Grandes Grenachieres d-Hippolyte, which is made from 85-year-old vines. These traditionally-made cuvees are aged in foudre or old barrels. Serguier has been managing this estate since 1981, although it dates from 1920. One of the few domaines that is outside of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Simian is located in the garlic capital of France, the tiny village of Piolenc, a 10-minute drive from the village of Chateauneuf du Pape. Importer: Total Wine & More, Potomac, MD; tel. (301) 795-1080

Biscuity and grape juice nose. Quite raw. Pretty perfumed palate but not very ''winey'' in style. Tannins unformed at present.