The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Lafoa is wonderfully refined in its suggestions of mocha, espresso, blackberry jam and grilled herbs. The tannins remain soft and silky all the way through to the engaging, polished finish. In the 2007 the Lafoa shows exceptional elegance and no hard edges, something that is quite a rarity in Cabernets from Alto Adige. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Alto Adige is a region full of high-quality cooperatives, but few are as consistent as Colterenzio-Schreckbichl. Importers: Empire Merchants, LLC, New York, NY; tel. (800) 338-3880 ; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; Grappoli Imports, Ltd, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 519-2155; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Haw River Wine Man, Inc., Haw River, NC; wineworm@earthlink.net; Horizon Wines, Inc.; Houston, TX; tel. (713) 413-9463; Ideal Wine and Spirit Company Inc., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300; International Wines, Inc.; Birmingham, Al; tel. (205) 945-7101; Premiere Beverage, South Florida, FL; tel. (954) 266-2227; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060; Vintage Wines, Ltd, Wood Dale, IL; tel. (773) 254-8200

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Lafoa is a dark, concentrated offering loaded with jammy blackberries, grilled herbs, minerals and spices. The wine shows good length and balance but the complexity and finesse of the best vintages seem lacking. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Colterenzio makes a wide range of wines. This year I found the whites more interesting than the reds. The estate’s entry-level wines were reviewed in Issue 184. Importers: Empire Merchants, LLC, New York, NY; tel. (800) 338-3880 ; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; Grappoli Imports, Ltd, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 519-2155; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Haw River Wine Man, Inc., Haw River, NC; wineworm@earthlink.net; Horizon Wines, Inc.; Houston, TX; tel. (713) 413-9463; Ideal Wine and Spirit Company Inc., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300; International Wines, Inc.; Birmingham, Al; tel. (205) 945-7101; Premiere Beverage, South Florida, FL; tel. (954) 266-2227; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060; Vintage Wines, Ltd, Wood Dale, IL; tel. (773) 254-8200

The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Lafoa is superb. This deeply-colored wine is endowed with notable concentration as it sweeps across the palate with masses of dark fruit, spices, tobacco and wild herbs. Despite its age, it remains a strapping, primary Cabernet with significant potential for development in bottle. There is terrific balance, and the wine has none of the hard edges or excessive herbaceousness that often characterize reds from this northerly region. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. The Colterenzio line-up was among the most consistently impressive I tasted this year. The value-priced wines are reviewed in Issue 178. Importers: Empire Merchants, LLC, New York, NY; tel. (800) 338-3880 ; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; Grappoli Imports, Ltd, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 519-2155; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Haw River Wine Man, Inc., Haw River, NC; wineworm@earthlink.net; Horizon Wines, Inc.; Houston, TX; tel. (713) 413-9463; Ideal Wine and Spirit Company Inc., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300; International Wines, Inc.; Birmingham,Al; tel. (205) 945-7101; Premiere Beverage, South Florida, FL; tel. (954) 266-2227; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060; Vintage Wines, Ltd, Wood Dale, IL; tel. (773) 254-8200

The 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Lafoa is a dense and concentrated wine with ample aromas of black currants and herbs, but its somewhat tough tannins raise some concerns about its long-term evolution. Drink: 2004-2012.