This 2009 Glasnevin Gravels Riesling has a delicate elderflower, peach-tinged bouquet that is perhaps just a little simple compared to its peers. The palate is light with subtle peach and rosewater notes, but lacks a little tension towards the finish. Drink now-2014. The wines from Craggy Range were tasted both in Hawkes Bay in January 2010 and then in London six months later. Steve Smith, Rod Easthope and the team continue to furnish consumers with a wide portfolio of terroir-based wines that satisfy both the value and prestige end of the market. Having tasted many of their wines, there is no doubt that they have ‘toned down’ their style, the initial releases being rather hubristic and a tad top-heavy with oak. This sense of refinement has lent the wines greater poise and breeding. Their reds are still their strongest suit, in particular their flagship labels such as ‘Le Sol’ and ‘Sophia’, but do not overlook their Chardonnays that exude great purity and Burgundian poise. Meanwhile their ‘Wild Rock’ entry-level range, which is treated as a completely separate entity to Craggy Range, contains some delightful varietals that form a neat introduction to the delights of Hawkes Bay’s wines.Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300.

The 2008 Glasnevin Gravels Riesling has a lifted nose of white flowers, beeswax and a touch of lanolin. Good definition and personality. The palate is inspired by the Mosel with lovely balance and purity, delicate touches of white peach, apricot and nectarine towards the finish. Superb. Craggy Range continue to press forward with their ambitious plans and are rapidly becoming one of the most familiar New Zealand producers both at an entry-level, having successfully penetrated the competitive supermarket shelves in the UK, but also winning plaudits for their array of flagship bottlings such as Le Sol, Sophia and The Quarry. I concentrated on new releases but re-tasted some of the Pinot Noirs that I felt have improved significantly.Importer: Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700

Commencing with a thrilling flight of Rieslings, the 2007 Glasnevin Gravel Vineyard Riesling (located in Waipara) was cropped at just 8 hectoliters per hectare and spent three months on lees. A vibrant nose of fresh lime and citrus fruits gradually reveals a touch of jasmine, the palate displays natural balance and an attractive tight, floral finish. The precocious Craggy Range has rapidly become one of New Zealand’s premier wine producers. Established in 1997, it is the collaboration between businessman Terry Peabody and the winemaking expertise of quiet, retiring Steve Smith MW, who concentrates upon the Bordeaux-blend “Sophia” and the Sauvignon Blanc. Smith has employed the skills of Rob Easthope to focus upon Chardonnay and Syrah and Adrian Baker on Pinot Noir, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. The state-of-the-art winery is modeled on futuristic architecture and is over-shadowed by the peaks that give rise to their name. The philosophy is firmly directed towards small production of single vineyard sites a la Burgundy. They purchased their own vineyard in the Te Muna sub-region of Martinborough where Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are cultivated, whilst fruit from the South Island is out-sourced. Their two flagship wines of “Sophia,” a Bordeaux blend and “Le Sol,” which is 100% Syrah. Recent vintages of these were tasted both at the winery and appeared in blind horizontal tasting where their quality shone through.Importer: Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700; Fax (914) 253-7910