The 2008 Reserve Release Chardonnay is still very youthful, offering subtle aromas of white peaches, lemon curd, apple tart and meal with a slight whiff of cedar. Light to medium bodied, it has a good backbone of high acid, nice suggestion of creaminess to the texture and a long stone fruit laced finish. Just approachable now, it should continue to evolve and drink well to 2016. Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA Inc, Tel: + 1 201 714 9700; www.debortoli.com.au.

(Victoria) Full, complex, broad and satisfying aromas of soft melon and juicy lemon. This has breadth, structure, vinosity and assurance. Good freshness, nicely balanced with a hint of buttered popcorn and a subtle, lingering finish. Great line and purity. Alc: 12%.

The medium straw-colored 2007 Chardonnay Reserve Release was fermented with native yeasts, went through full malolactic fermentation, and was aged in seasoned French oak. It reveals an enticing perfume of spiced apples, poached pear, and a hint of tropical fruit in the background. On the palate it shows off an elegant, racy personality with intense flavors, good balance, and a fruit-filled finish. Drink it over the next five years. De Bortoli produces a substantial amount of wine (it has four winemaking facilities) but under the leadership of manager/winemaker Stephen Webber this has not been a deterrent to high quality. Eight value wines were reviewed in Issue 178 and merit serious interest. The main winery facility which I visited in September 2008 is located in the cooler climate Yarra Valley where the focus is on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA, Hoboken, NJ; tel. (201) 714-9700