A special old-vine selection, the 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Richemone Vieilles Vignes "Cuvée Ultra" is very promising, unwinding in the glass with aromas of raspberries, plums, sweet spices, loamy soil and espresso roast. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's lively and tightly wound, with beautifully refined tannins and tangy acids.

The 2016 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Richemone Vieilles Vignes "Cuvée Ultra" has a mineral-driven bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit suffused with flinty, slate-like scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe tannin, a fine line of acidity, fresh from the start but maintaining impressive elegance and poise right to the finish. This has great potential and it should age well for a couple of decades.

The 2015 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Richemone Vieilles Vignes "Cuvée Ultra" has another vibrant, generous bouquet with ample red cherry, cassis, crushed violet and mineral scents. It is very pure, almost sorbet-like. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe black cherry and blackcurrant fruit laced with a pinch of white pepper and minerals. Like Christophe's other 2015s, it offers panache in spades, with a caressing finish that lingers long in the mouth, a residue of orange rind on the aftertaste. This is excellent.

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges La Richemone Ultra, from a vineyard planted in 1902, is super-finessed and classy. The fruit seems to hover on the palate. Dark cherries, plums, sweet spices and mint are some of the many notes that come together in the glass. The precise, understated finish is beautifully articulated. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. It was great to meet up with Christophe Perrot-Minot, as I missed him last time around. Perrot-Minot is one of the most exciting domaines in Burgundy. Since 2006-2007 Christophe Perrot-Minot has begun to back away from the dark, concentrated wines he used to make, and the results are stunning. The fruit sees 5-7 days cold soak. Today Perrot-Minot does one punch down every two days, whereas previously he did three per day. In 2010 yields were down a whopping 45%. Over the last few years Perrot-Minot has expanded the range with a number of wines made from purchased fruit, including several that are sourced from Pierre Damoy. I tasted the Bourgogne, Gevrey and Chambolle from tank and the rest of the wines from barrel. I also tasted a number of 2009s that were fabulous. I will report on those wines in the April issue. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400