The only white wine is the 2021 El Tamboril, from a very small plot of old vines in the village of Navatalgordo. The full clusters were pressed and the juice fermented in glass, where it matured. It has a nose of chamomile, beeswax and something herbal and spicy. It has a vibrant palate with effervescent acidity, quite sharp, with a moderate 12.5% alcohol and a strong stony sensation. It matured in one "wine globe," a 200-liter glass demijohn. This is almost a virtual wine; only 252 bottles were produced (they kept a little volume to age under flor...). It was bottled in April 2023. Fortunately enough, they have planted more white grapes here. So, in a few years' time, there should be a little more...

The 2020 El Tamboril is a white from Navatalgordo. In this vintage, it still has the subtitle Cuvée Homenaje Dámaso, after the vigneron that tended the vines in the Tamboril Vineyard all his life until his death. The wine is a blend of Trebbiano Toscano/Ugni Blanc with a pinch of Garnacha Gris. In this cooler vintage, the wine is fresher and lighter, more mineral with a strict sensation on the palate, with granite, less volume on the palate and more citrus freshness, more delineated than the 2019 that I tasted last year. This year there was a change; it fermented and matured in glass demijohn, a 225-liter wine globe and a regular 55-liter one (so no concrete or oak anymore, glass only), and the small one developed a thin layer of flor veil, whose effect is ultra subtle. The wine has a lot of finesse, developing citrus notes with time, but it’s very delicate. They have increased the precision of working with the press, and that also shows in the precision of the wine. I believe this is the finest white they have produced to date. It has energy, texture, acidity, sharp stones in the finish... like a Riesling from the south! Unfortunately, there are only 311 bottles of this unique white. It was bottled in May 2022.

The label of the white 2019 El Tamboril mentions Cuvée Homenage Dámaso, in honor of the old owner of this vineyard who died in 2019. This 2019 is a full 2% higher in alcohol than the 2018, and it's honeyed and very much like a white Hermitage with the nose of flowers and the volume in the palate. At the same time, it has more freshness and acidity, but the profile of the wine is quite different. 2019 delivered a small crop, and there is only one 225-liter barrel and some glass demijohns of this. Which means only 332 bottles and 12 magnums were filled in June 2021.

The one white produced by Comando G (other than a small cuvée of biological flor-aged white sometimes and some almost experimental whites) is the 2018 El Tamboril, a blend of Garnacha Blanca and Garnacha Gris from a 0.2-hectare plot of 70-year-old vines at 1,200 meters in altitude in the village of Navatalgordo on shallow sand and sandstone soils. The grapes were picked in mid-October despite which the wine is only 12.2% alcohol and has amazing parameters of freshness, a pH of 3.15 and 6.31 grams of acidity measured in tartaric acid. The clusters were directly pressed, and the juice fermented in oak barrel with indigenous yeasts. The wine matured in a concrete egg for 14 months instead of barrique, and this wine is sharper and narrower, which was the objective. This is amazing, sharp, crystalline, precise, insinuating and super mineral, with a texture of cold liquid rocks, and it's full of flavors and has a salty finish, which seems to be a characteristic from El Tamboril that I even find in the red. It makes me think of some of the wines from Jean-Marc Roulot, austere and precise. Mind-blowing. Only 728 bottles were filled in March 2020.

The one white I tasted this time, the 2017 El Tamboril was produced with the grapes from the only vineyard in the paraje known as El Tamboril in the village of Navatalgordo (ávila)—0.2 hectares of 70-year-old vines at 1,200 meters in altitude (their highest vineyard) on very shallow soils rich in granite sand and quartz. There are many grape varieties planted, but they used mostly Garnacha Blanca and Garnacha Gris, pressing the clusters directly and fermenting the juice in barrique with natural yeasts. 2017 was a powerful vintage, and the wine is close to 14% alcohol but still has very good freshness and very healthy acidity parameters. This is an updated version of the 2012, a year of good ripeness keeping the freshness, with notes of yellow and white flowers, a touch of pollen, quite complex and nuanced. But it's on the palate that you can feel the intensity and inner strength of the wine, with crunchy citrus acidity, pungent and electric. It has the salty tastiness of the white granite soils in the finish. 2017 is again a very scarce harvest, and they only produced 395 bottles that were filled in March 2019 from the used barrique where it matured for one year.