Shows the inky black color, thick sandpaper tannins and dryness that mark the best of North Coast Petite Sirah. Those qualities make the wine a bit hard and closed now, but the flavors are a real buried treasure. Blackberries, currants, licorice, beef jerky, cola, sweet leather, it’s a tremendous swirl of complexity. If you must drink soon, decant. Otherwise the wine will effortlessly ride out the next 20 years.——S.H.(8/1/2008)—— 93