Another unqualified success, the flagship 2009 Rosso Riserva Don Luigi is expressive and powerful. Sweet floral and spice notes add elements of finesse to this deep, refined Montepulciano/Aglianico blend. A silky, perfumed finish rounds things out nicely. This is another marvelous showing from Di Majo Norante. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. I was totally struck by the wines I tasted from Di Majo Norante this year. This range is packed with a number of fabulous values. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2008 Montepulciano Riserva Don Luigi presents a cool, inward expression of this native grape. A vein of lively minerality frames black fruits, herbs and smoke. The wine softens with air, turning seamless and impeccably elegant on the finish. Still, the Don Luigi is a brooding wine in need of bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2007 Montepulciano Riserva Don Luigi emerges from the glass with dark wild cherries, herbs and minerals, all of which are supported by sweet, silky tannins. There is lovely length to the fruit and a refreshing finish, even if the 2007 is made in a relatively lithe style for this bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Di Majo Norante is an excellent source for well-priced wines full of character. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2006 Riserva Don Luigi (90% Montepulciano, 10% Aglianico) is a big, super-ripe red loaded with blueberry and blackberry jam, wild herbs and French oak. This is an especially opulent, port-like wine that reveals good length but not much subtlety, as the sumptuous style has been achieved at the expense of a measure of elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This is a delicate and intricate red blend from Molise that offers well-dosed aromas of black fruit, cola, balsam notes and mineral. The wine is expertly extracted to yield thick and luscious flavors lavished over its dense concentration. This is an excellent example of the potential of winemaking from Italy’s least-known region.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 92