The 2006 Riserva Don Luigi (90% Montepulciano, 10% Aglianico) is a big, super-ripe red loaded with blueberry and blackberry jam, wild herbs and French oak. This is an especially opulent, port-like wine that reveals good length but not much subtlety, as the sumptuous style has been achieved at the expense of a measure of elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This is a delicate and intricate red blend from Molise that offers well-dosed aromas of black fruit, cola, balsam notes and mineral. The wine is expertly extracted to yield thick and luscious flavors lavished over its dense concentration. This is an excellent example of the potential of winemaking from Italy’s least-known region.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 92