Sweet, glossy, and glycerin-rich, the Bursin 2009 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle delivers copious rose petal, litchi, marzipan, and honey – confectionary to be sure, but endearingly so, and with a welcome sense of levity and primary juiciness as well as an intensely clinging cinnamon stick spiciness to its finish. This is for all intents and purposes a V.T., but represents the product of young vines which, opines Bursin, could not deliver the requisite richness to justify inclusion in this year’s corresponding V.T. Be that as it may, I’d be inclined to implicate youthfulness of vines in precisely the levity, juiciness, and exuberant personality of this non-V.T. bottling. Agathe Bursin continues to fearlessly experiment as well as to enjoy a strong legion of fans. I skipped a few of the less-expensive wines in her line-up during my recent vintage due to a shortage of time.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Classic sweet pea and rose petal aromas rise from the glass of Bursin 2007 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle, which the caresses the palate creamily yet with flatteringly juicy pineapple, lime, and yellow plum and an admirable sense of buoyancy. Celery root, smoked meat, and brown spices add complexity to this subtly off-dry rendition of Gewurztraminer that should keep well for at least 6-8 years. Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29