The 2020 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is the most powerful, as well as the least evolved, of the domaine's premiers crus. Unwinding in the glass with scents of dark berries, cherries, exotic spices, licorice, loamy soil and ripe plums, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with a seamless, multidimensional profile and a long, expansive finish. This will require and reward patience.

Full-bodied, elegantly muscular and multidimensional, the 2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is a layered, tightly wound wine, evocative of cassis, rose petals, Indian spices and orange rind. Broad, powerful and incipiently complex, this is a terrific proposition for the long haul.

As usual, the 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is the most reserved premier cru in the cellar, unwinding slowly in the glass with aromas of cherries, berries and cassis mingled with notes of grilled squab and smoked meats. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with a deep and concentrated core that's still youthfully tight-knit. This is a Malconsorts with a brilliant future.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is also showing nicely from bottle, unfurling in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of raspberries, plums, grilled squab and warm spices that are framed by a deft application of classy new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a rich chassis of tannin, fine concentration and a more introverted profile than the expressive Beaumonts.

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts has a disarmingly beautiful nose with blackcurrant, briary and cold stone scents that offer great typicité. Likewise, the palate has a structure typical of this premier cru, denser and more mineral-driven than the Suchots, perhaps at the same time more aloof. But that is what you want from a Malconsorts and there is great precision on the long and tender finish. There is great potential here.