The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards is showing very well, bursting with notes of smoky berry fruit, plums and spices. Medium to full-bodied, gourmand and enveloping, with fine tannins and lively acids, it's a touch more dynamic than the similarly sensual 2018 rendition.

The 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards unfurls to reveal notes of raspberries, mulberries, dark chocolate and spices. Medium to full-bodied, textural and enveloping, its ample core of gourmand but succulent fruit is structured around ultra-fine tannins. This is very promising and will be hard to resist in its youth.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards exhibits beautiful nose notes of orange rind, wild berries, cassis and rose petals. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with a lavishly textural attack, melting tannins and a succulent core of fruit, concluding with a long finish. In 2016, this cuvée was so small that Glantenay included it in his Volnay AOC, but happily, 2017 marks its return to the range.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards, which includes 30% whole bunch fruit, has a crisp blackberry, briary and slate-scented nose that is focused and well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe tannin, well-judged acidity and quite a firm grip suggesting that this is a Volnay that deserves cellaring. There is good substance here and what it might lack in refinement, it compensates with vigor and length.