The 2009 Volnay Les Brouillards is a bit closed in on itself. Dark fruit, smoke and licorice emerge gradually from this powerful, virile Volnay. If the tannins soften, this may merit a higher score. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This is a fine set of wines from Thierry Glantenay, one of Volnay’s up and coming artisan growers. Glantenay and his family farm 7 hectares of vineyards, mostly in Volnay and Pommard. The 2009 harvest started on September 9th. Except as noted, all of the wines were made with 100% destemmed fruit. Cuvaison lasted around 12-16 days. In 2009 Glantenay did a little cold maceration to bring the temperature of the grapes down, although in colder years he does not typically do a cold soak. The wines were moved in to oak where they aged on their fine lees with no rackings until they were prepared for bottling. Glantenay used a maximum of 30% new oak in 2009. I tasted most of these 2009s from tank. Bottling was scheduled for March 2011. Glantenay did not plan to fine or filter. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800