My favorite among his Cotes du Rhone-Villages wines is the 2009 Cairanne Les Chabriles. This wine has a dense ruby/purple color and a big, sweet kiss of kirsch, blackberry, charcoal, and herbs. It should drink nicely for at least 7-8 years. (Not yet released)This large domaine has vineyards throughout Gigondas and some of the neighboring villages.Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Southern Wine & Spirits, and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100

Domaine Brusset’s two 2007 Cairannes are both beautiful wines as well as outstanding bargain . Even deeper-colored, richer, and longer, the 2007 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne Les Chabiles is a beautifully made, full-bodied, spicy, peppery, garrigue-laced effort with outstanding purity and depth. Drink it over the next 3-5 years. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Southern Wine & Spirits, and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100

No tasting notes for the 2004 Cairanne Chabrille.An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Charmer Industries, NY; tel. (718) 726-2500; Southern Wine and Spirits, CA; tel. (510) 487-3332, Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284, and Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400