Built for the cellar, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reine des Bois—a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% each Syrah and Vaccarèse—is full-bodied and firm. Concentrated and dense, it's tight and structured, although it does offer up hints of mocha, vanilla, ripe cherries and chocolate on the nose, and finishes long and velvety. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

A blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% each Syrah and Vaccarese, the certified-organic 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reine des Bois is surprisingly muscular, with concentrated black cherries, purple raspberries and plums backed by sturdy ribbons of silky tannin. Hints of mocha, roasted meat, and black olives provide a savory counterpoint to the abundant fruit, and the rich finish verges on chocolaty, with the textural suggestion of cocoa powder.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reine des Bois was bottled just two weeks before I visited the domaine in June, but despite that, it seemed open, lush and delicious on both occasions I tasted it (once blind a week later). Hints of oak and licorice accent black cherries in this big, plush, velvety-textured wine, which is 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% each Syrah and Vaccarèse. It's silky enough to enjoy young but has the requisite stuffing to age well for more than a decade.

The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reine des Bois is a monumental effort. Packed and dense, full-bodied and richly tannic, it's completely absorbed the 30% oak. It's 80% Grenache, older vines from the lieux-dits of La Crau and La Nerthe. Blueberries, licorice and Mexican chocolate are carried on a velvety mouthfeel through an indelibly long finish. It's a tour de force, so young, but so tempting. Tasted three times, with consistent notes.