The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de la Reine des Bois should rival the estate’s terrific 2007, 2006, 2005, 2001 and 1998. It boasts a saturated black/purple color and a glorious perfume of melted licorice, acacia flowers, lavender, blueberries, blackberries and kirsch. Full-bodied and dense as well as extraordinarily elegant, precise and fresh, this sumptuous wine should be cellared for 3-5 years, and drunk over the following 25+. It is a candidate for “wine of the vintage.” (Not yet released)Christophe Delorme continues to fashion some of Chateauneuf du Pape’s most exciting wines (as well as Lirac, roses from Tavel, and sensational Cotes du Rhones).Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

A wine that might rival the 2001 when all is said and done, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de La Reine des Bois is an incredible effort that does everything right. Possessing a voluptuous, decadent and super-rich profile, it stays graceful and perfectly balanced, with beautiful freshness, a stacked mid-palate and a blockbuster finish. Opening up in the glass, with copious blackberry, cassis, graphite, violets and spring flower-like nuances, it needs another 2-3 years of bottle age, and will have upward of three decades of overall longevity. As I wrote in the intro for this domaine last year, Domaine de la Mordoree is a reference point estate for Chateauneuf du Pape. Run by the talented brother duo of Fabrice and Christophe Delorme, with Christophe making the wines, they produce a relatively modern-styled Chateauneuf, as well as more than noteworthy Liracs and Tavels. For this tasting at the domaine (I was also able to taste through this full lineup again, from bottles in the U.S.), we started with the older vintages and worked toward the more current releases. In addition to their Reine des Bois cuvee, the Delorme brothers also release a special cuvee call the Cuvee de la Plume du Peintre. It’s made only in top vintages, and, as of today, it’s only been made in 2003 and 2005. There’s a scant 150 cases of each. Coming from a plot of 80-year-old vines located in the famed La Crau lieu-dit, the blend has changed between the two releases, as has the elevage. Importer: Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258