The 2014 Volnay Clos d'Audignac 1er Cru, the domaine's 0.80-hectare monopole planted in 1966, has a very different bouquet compared with the 2014 En Caillerets; it is much more floral and perfumed, with hints of wilted violets infusing the pretty black cherry and raspberry coulis aromas. The palate is quite pointed on the entry with noticeable tannin, perhaps a little abrasive with quite citric acidity. This needs to gain a little more harmony, but what I like is the energy in this Volnay. It feels "uncontained" at the moment, almost feral, but that is absorbing. It could go either way once in bottle!

The 2013 Volnay Clos d’Audignac 1er Cru has a more laconic bouquet compared to the other Volnay premier crus at the moment, with fleeting glimpses of mulberry and gravelly scents. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, tensile tannins, very fine focus and plenty of fresh citrus fruit on the finish. There is a conspicuous sense of structure and symmetry here.

The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Clos d'Audignac comes from the 0.80-hectare monopole whose population was planted back in 1966. It has more red than black fruit profile on the delicate, pretty, feminine nose that unravels temptingly in the glass. The palate is smooth and harmonious on the entry, the oak here perhaps just needing more time to fully enmesh, but the finish has an appealing roundness and sucrosity. This is a lovely, very natural Volnay that will be approachable, yet has the substance to age well. Domaine de la Pousse d'Or is one of the most picturesque estates in Burgundy, perched imperiously on the southern flank of Volnay village. With his hounds encircling his legs, I met with Patrick Landanger who became proprietor back in 1997 due to the untimely passed of Gerard Potel. His intentions of becoming a silent shareholder were changed and having acquired the remaining shares from the Potel family, found himself the sole proprietor. He got the bit between his teeth, expanding the domaine's holdings up unto Corton and down into Puligny, converting the vineyard to organic viticulture with an eye on biodynamics. We tasted the wines in his multi-tiered cuverie as assembled blend taken directly from vat. Patrick was keen to stress his dedication to sorting, first via a vibrating table, then a second by eye and hand, then electronically. The result is very pure fruit that fortunately is not taken to the extreme so that it erases the nuances of each terroir. Moreover, I appreciate the prudent use of new oak here. This is another estate, like Marquis d'Angerville, that has a ceteris paribus approach i.e. it is maintained at 30% so that those nuances of terroir can be observed without being skewed by the level of wood. There have been occasions, most notably apropos the 2009 vintage, where I felt that there was a touch of over-ripeness evident in the wines. In 2012 I only discerned one cuvee that exhibited similar traits, the Bonnes-Mares, which came across rather ostentatious compared to the far more refined Clos-de-la-Roche. Otherwise, these 2012s from La Pousse d'Or are worth seeking out. Importers: North Berkeley Wine, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880; a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

The 2009 Volnay Clos d'Audignac is the most open and inviting of these 2009s today. Layers of rich, textured fruit flow across the palate in stunning style. Hints of goudron and licorice add complexity to the dark, jammy fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2039. This is a stunning set of wines from Patrick Landager. The vintage yielded a set of super-sized, big wines that may shock some readers for their sheer intensity. These are among some of the most backward 2009s I tasted and will require considerable patience. The estate now farms a total of 19 hectares, which includes the vineyards Landager acquired when he bought Domaine Moine-Hudelot a few years back. In 2009 Landager started harvesting on September 22, when most people were already finished picking. Cuvaison started with 5-6 days of cold maceration and lasted a total of three weeks with one punchdown in the morning and a second in the afternoon. The wines spent 12-15 months in oak (roughly 30% new) on their fine lees with no rackings until they were prepared for bottling, which took place with no fining or filtration. (Note: the Chambolle saw 50% new oak). All of the 2009s were bottled in early February 2010. Importers: North Berkeley Wine, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880; a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93