Yves Grassa’s 2008 Domaine de Pouy – a blend of Ugni Blanc and Colombard – smells typically of clover, herbs, and grasses, lime, and pineapple. A delicacy; an efficacy of ripe acidity; and an invigorating intimation of peach fuzz and salt in the finish, all make this year’s cuvee especially appealing. Keep this on hand in your refrigerator (not the same bottle, of course!) over the coming 6-9 months. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

One of the many labels owned by the Grassa family of Domaine du Tariquet, this is so light and fresh that it just floats across the palate. It is citrus-crisp, with a tight apple skin texture. Great for aperitifs. Screwcap.——R.V.(9/1/2010)—— 86