An all-Roussanne cuvée that sees 20% new oak for fermentation and aging (the rest is in stainless steel), the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc l'Insolente is extremely successful, offering hints of smoke and cured pork fat alongside notes of nectarines, tangerines and lime. It's full-bodied, rich and creamy, despite checking in at only 13.3% alcohol, finishing lush and long. Lovely stuff to drink now and over the next 6-7 years.

The Roussanne-based 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape l'Insolente Blanc is a toasty, nutty-scented wine. Full-bodied, creamy and loaded with mandarin fruit, it gains focus and picks up hints of pencil shavings on the long finish.

The 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Insolente Blanc (100% Roussanne) is medium-bodied, beautifully textured and ripe, with classy notes of ripe orchard fruits, brioche and a hint of barrique. It will drink nicely for at least 3-4 years.

The 2014 Chateauneuf du Pape l’Insolente Blanc was brought up mostly in stainless steel, yet with 20% in French oak. It offers plenty of mint and spiced citrus notes to go with a medium-bodied, beautifully balanced, classy style on the palate. There’s not much to go around (little over 100 cases), but it will be versatile on the dinner table and it is well worth checking out.

There are 1,500 bottles of the 2013 Chateauneuf du Pape L’Insolente Blanc, and it’s a blend of 100% Roussanne that’s brought up in 30% new French oak and 70% in stainless steel. Medium-bodied, straightforward and juicy, it offers plenty of apple, ripe peach, leafy herbs and mineral aromas and flavors. Drink it over the coming couple of years.