Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. Of several examples from this prestigious vineyard, the last in the flight captured its essence more than any other: the 2011 Meursault 1er Cru les Perrières from Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet. Here that mineral tautness and Puligny-like stoniness is undeniable and untrammeled. The palate is beautifully poised and harmonious. There are traces of apricot and white peach, even persimmon, but the headline is the minerality and tension threaded through this premier cru from start to finish. With great persistence in the mouth, this is a convincing Perrières from the top drawer.

The Chateau de Puligny 2007 Meursault Perrieres features lusciously ripe apricot and honeydew melon with a liquid distillation of floral perfume. Another polished, refined effort that combines a substantial sense of mineral extract with lift and elegance that in part bespeak its mere 12.5% alcohol, this finishes with alluring suggestions of nut oils and spices adding richness to a chalky, saline, and bracingly fresh-fruited finish. This ravishing example of vintage virtues should be worth following for the better part of a decade. Etienne de Montille – whose entire Chateau de Puligny collection I regrettably did not have time to taste – reports that what botrytis there was in 2007 was located on the exterior rather than (as was the case in 2008) inside the grape clusters, thus making it easier to select-out, and that small losses to hail in certain sites where not accompanied by damage to the fruit or significant retardation of ripening. Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040 and Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327-0808; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (with various additional importers) Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

The toast, mineral, and spice-scented 2000 Meursault Perrieres is a concentrated, medium-bodied wine. It reveals an appealing panoply of spices to its otherwise lemony personality. It is elegant, detailed, well-balanced, and loaded with flavor. Drink it over the next 7 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The Meursault Perrieres displays enthralling almond butter aromas as well as a fat, creamy character. This dried honey, mineral, and hazelnut extract-flavored offering is bold, deeply ripe, and possesses fine length. An exceptionally well-balanced wine, it should evolve well with cellaring. Projected maturity: 2000-2006+. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.

Revealing an attractive gravel, rock dust, and nut-filled nose, the Meursault Perrieres (tasted from barrel on two separate occasions) is a medium-to-full-bodied, oily-textured, concentrated, extracted, and rich offering. Broad layers of spiced pears, minerals, and sweet toasty oak are found in its deep, well-balanced, and persistent personality. It should be at its peak from 2002 to 2007. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Jacques Montagnon, the Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet's young, dedicated, bright, and dynamic winemaker is leading this estate into the top echelon of Puligny's domaines. The Chateau's yields averaged 40 hectoliters/hectare while many of Montagnon's more esteemed, and more expensive, neighbors harvested 40% more. Not one to mince words, Montagnon described the 30% increase in permissible yields Puligny's vignerons obtained from the INAO to be a "total aberration and heresy." Robert Kacher, this estate's US importer, is given the permission to select the barrels he would like, as are other nations' importers. In 1996 Kacher's "cuvees" have been subjected to a longer elevage than England's and the rest of Europe's. These notes reflect the wines that will be shipped to the US. Montagnon's 1996's have the ripe, rich, and lively qualities I associate with this outstanding vintage, yet seem to have avoided its potential pitfalls, namely hollowness from high yields and teeth-clenching acidity. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.