The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns opens in the glass with aromas of cherries, sweet berries, licorice and plums, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate that's unusually tightly wound for a young Beaux Bruns, exhibiting good tension and concluding with a mineral finish.

Sensual and gourmand, Barthod's 2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries and plums mingled with rose petals, orange rind and spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, it's seamless and enveloping, with an ample core of fruit and ripe, supple tannins. If there's one wine in the range that can be approached young, it's this.

Picked on August 26, the 2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns reveals a deep bouquet of sweet red berries and plums, mingled with hints of raw cocoa, spices and soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, succulent and enveloping, it's elegantly fleshy, with excellent concentration and an ample chassis of fine, powdery tannin. This is typically one of the most forward premiers crus in the cellar, and that appears to be the case this year.

From a warm site that typically produces the most accessible of Berthod's premiers crus, the 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns soars from the glass with aromas of ripe raspberries and cherries that mingle with nuances of licorice, rose petals and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and generous, with a gourmand and expressive core of fruit, velvety tannins and succulent balancing acids. Reminiscent of Barthod's terrific 2000, this will be hard to resist in its youth, but it should see out its 20th birthday in style.

The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns comprises only six barrels this year, half the normal production, with one-third new oak. It has a relatively light bouquet for a Beaux Bruns, gradually unfolding with red berry fruit, something almost ferrous, with blackberry and briary scents emerging with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. I find this Chambolle harmonious and composed, not long like the 2015 but detailed with fine mineral tension on the finish.