The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is one of the more reserved wines in the range, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange zest, confit citrus, crisp yellow apple and white flowers. It's medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with racy acids and a long, saline finish. Forget it for the better part of a decade in the cellar and reap the rewards, even if it will be approachable sooner.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is strikingly good. Mingling aromas of pear, lemon oil, white flowers, citrus zest and freshly baked bread in an inviting mélange, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with an impressive mid-palate plenitude, racy acids and a long, chalky finish. It's the best Frionnes I've ever tasted from Lamy.

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is showing beautifully in bottle, mingling scents of crisp orchard fruit, citrus oil and peach with hints of crushed chalk and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, it's layered and saline, concluding with a mouthwatering finish.

Wafting from the glass with scents of citrus oil, crisp green orchard fruit, white flowers and iodine, Lamy's 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is medium to full-bodied, enveloping and incisive, with a crisp core of fruit, lively acids and a precise, mineral finish. Seamless and complete, this has come together beautifully in bottle.

The 2016 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes has an attractive bouquet with scents of citrus peel and blackcurrant leaf. It needs to develop a touch more harmony but it does appear to gain detail in the glass. The palate is well balanced, quite primal with grapefruit and Granny Smith apple notes. There is moderate depth here, but I just find it a little conservative on the finish, as if it does not want to go that extra mile.