Tasted from its single foudre, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure looks to be another great vintage for this cuvée. Full-bodied, supple and richly textured, it features vibrant blackberry fruit this year, accented by hints of dried spices and brighter-than-normal acids, which give it a slightly edgy quality and a long, briny/salted licorice finish.

The 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure is Grenache from a single sandy parcel at the junction of three lieux-dits (le Grand Pierre, le Pointu and le Rayas). Vinified in concrete and aged in foudre, it's a pretty, charming effort, with floral notes reminiscent of roses and lavender balanced by hints of rosemary, black cherries and just a touch of dark chocolate. Full-bodied and rich, it's loaded with concentrated fruit yet finishes long and silky. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure is remarkably balanced, fresh and, yes, pure. The layers of raspberry fruit are blemish-free, so intense and concentrated that in other hands they might come across as jammy, but here, they're fresh and vibrant, backed by a full-bodied palate that's silky and airy in feel while possessing terrific intensity and depth. It should drink well for 15+ years.

There are nearly 300 cases of the nectar that is the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure. Produced from 100+-year-old Grenache vines grown in sandy soils, simply put, it's just awesome juice. A kaleidoscope of red fruits—cherries, raspberries and strawberries—swirl languorously across the palate, boasting great intensity while seeming weightless at the same time. Hints of dried herbs and spices add complexity to this luscious concoction, which must be tasted to be believed. Silky and endless, and showing no alcoholic heat on the finish, it's the poster child for great Grenache. Am I being too conservative at 99 points?

Showing beautifully (a lot of 2012s have put on weight since I tasted them on release), the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure has plenty of similarities to the 2010, with terrific purity and freshness in its blackberry, kirsch, currants and ground herb-driven bouquet. Full-bodied, concentrated and layered, it's perfectly balanced and never puts a foot wrong. It will benefit from short-term cellaring, but should be approachable at an earlier age than the 2010, and have 20 years of overall longevity.