The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes wafts from the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, orange oil, pastry cream, vanilla pod and light reduction. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, it's girdled by bright acids and framed by chalky structuring extract.

One of the more reserved wines in the range is the 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes, a medium to full-bodied, layered and saline wine evocative of citrus oil, pear, warm bread and dried white flowers. This will merit a few years' patience.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes is a dramatic, powerful wine that offers up aromas of yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb, white flowers, nectarines and oyster shells. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a generous, impactful attack, though it falls a little short on the finish.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes is one of the more expressive wines in what's a youthfully reticent range, exhibiting pretty aromas of white peaches and flowers. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, glossy and textural, with a broad attack, succulent acids and a tense, stony finish. Understated but nicely balanced, it's a persuasive Fourchaumes.

The 2015 Chablis 1er Cru les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes, one of the final vineyards to be picked because of the thickness of the skins, has attractive scents of quince, orange blossom, flint and just a light petrol scent. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, slightly creamy in the mouth with a palpable sense of energy and flecks of almond and white chocolate sprinkled judiciously over the finish. This is a well crafted Fourchaume that may merit a higher score down the line.