The 1998 Riesling St. Hippolyte reveals spring onion, chalk, and clay aromas. Tart and tangy lemons can be found in this lively, vivacious, light to medium-bodied wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2006. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.

Aromatically, the 1997 Riesling St. Hippolyte (a granite-dominated terroir) offers grapefruits and stones. This lime, lemon, crisp apple, and chalk-flavored wine is light-to-medium-bodied, lively, and highly-focused. It is concentrated and backward, requiring a year or two of cellaring. Drink it between 2000 and 2005. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.

Riesling is king at Domaine Marcel Deiss. I tasted seven totally distinct Rieslings with Deiss. The 1994 Riesling St.-Hippolyte is austere, with light intensity, green apple scents, an underlying mineral/tangerine-like fruitiness, medium body, high acidity, and an intriguing leesy component. The wine needs another 8-12 months to open, but it is impressively pure and well-built. Readers should realize that the 1994s are exceptionally young, relatively unevolved wines that are just beginning to hint at their potential.Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579