The 2015 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a valedictory wine as the 90-year-old vines were pulled up after the fruit was picked (see producer introduction). You know, it actually surpasses the Chevalier-Montrachet in terms of mineralité and complexity, very refined with hints of orange blossom developing with time. The palate is very well balanced with a keen line of acidity, good tension and particular fine salinity here that urges you back for another sip. There is just a barrel and a half of this Batard-Montrachet so grab one now because it will not reappear for a long time.

The 2014 Batard Montrachet Grand Cru was much more open on the nose than the Chevalier-Montrachet from Niellon, though again it seemed quite primal and was missing the minerality of some of its peers. The palate is quite intense on the entry with touches of dried honey and quince, good weight in the mouth, yet it needs more finesse and nervosity to come through on the finish. Still, there is a nice salinity on the aftertaste, so hopefully it will find its groove in time.

The 2013 Batard Montrachet, Michel Niellon’s rarest cru (just two and a half barrels in 2013) was bottled at the beginning of September. It has an exotic, candied bouquet comparing it directly with the Chevalier-Montrachet with lush passion fruit and almond scents, all nigh irresistible. The palate is rounded and exotic in the mouth but not overbearing, armed with gorgeous orange peel, pineapple and lemon zest notes and then plenty of passion fruit toward the vibrant finish. This is holding nothing back, unlike the Chevalier-Montrachet, and it will be difficult to resist in its youth.

The 2009 Batard-Montrachet is rich, deep and layered. There is a centeredness to the fruit that is highly appealing here. The wine blossoms beautifully on the mid-palate and finish, with expressive perfume that threads all of the elements together nicely. This beautiful, seamless wine impresses for its fine balance and personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I tasted all of these wines with Michel Niellon in his huge warehouse facility just outside of Chassagne. The 2009s are made in a style that emphasizes freshness. Niellon thinks wines peak at 6-7 years after releases and he is clearly going for an accessible style. That said, I found all the wines all shows better with air, except for the Chevalier, which unfortunately remained stubborn throughout my visit. I hope to have a chance to retaste it in the future. The 2009s saw 25% new oak. The wines are racked in July, after the malos, and were bottled before the 2010 harvest. Niellon told me he might pursue longer elevage for some of his wines now that space is not a constraint. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400