Niellon's 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers unwinds in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, crisp green apple, white flowers, fresh bread and toasted nuts. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and incisive, with a pretty core of fruit, racy acids and a chalky, saline finish, it's a fine effort.

From a parcel planted in 2000, this is a cuvée that goes from strength to strength, and the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is excellent. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, pastry cream, buttered toast and citrus oil, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a tightly wound core, racy acids and a chalky finish.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is also excellent, unwinding to reveal notes of green pear, white currants, toasted bread, anise and fresh mint. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a more muscular, textural profile than the Clos Saint-Jean this year, concluding with a penetrating, mineral finish.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is lovely, wafting from the glass with notes of apple, white flowers, pear and subtle hazelnut cream. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and elegant, with a giving, open-knit profile but tangy underlying acids and a stony finish. It exemplifies the charm and lovely balance of which this white Burgundy vintage is capable.

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers was more expressive on the nose compared to the Maltoie: tropical scents of pineapple and passion fruit, a hint of almond in the background with decent delineation. The palate is fresh on the entry with just a touch of bitter lemon lending tension. This has more energy, more verve than the Maltroie and it finishes with good salinity and persistence. That's more like it! This comes recommended.