The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain was sampled directly from vat as the malolactic fermentation was slower and consequently it had just been racked. Still, what I got here was a decent Chassagne-Montrachet Champ Gains in the making, the delineation and race on the nose discernible. The palate is was still a little discombobulated after the racking, although there is decent depth and a keen line of acidity in place. With moderate persistence in the mouth, it should evolve into a satisfying Champs Gain.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Niellon's 2014 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain showed far better than when I tasted it just after bottling. Here, it has a fresh and vibrant bouquet with gunflint-infused Golden Delicious aromas, intense and vivacious. The palate is very composed with beautifully integrated oak and plenty of complex fruit: Japanese yuzu, nectarine, stem ginger and touch of rhubarb. This has certainly improved in bottle, and it may well continue its ascent.

The 2013 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain has a more exotic almond and coconut-scented bouquet than the Les Chaumees, although at the moment not quite the same delineation or minerality. The palate is smooth and with a touch of viscosity, a keen thread of acidity slicing through an attractive, slightly honeyed, generous finish that is nicely focused. I might be tempted to drink this earlier than the other crus, but it will still give a lot of pleasure.

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champ Gain is very closed and inexpressive on the nose despite rigorous coaxing. The palate has a fresh, citrus and lemongrass-tinged entry. To draw a positive, it is endowed with more body than the Maltroie but ditto; it seems to lack the nervosite and persistency that identifies this domaine’s wines. Pleasant enough, but it is missing some personality. As an admirer of Michel Niellon wines, especially after a divine Chevalier-Montrachet 1986 earlier this year, it is with heavy heart that I have to report that this appears to be one producer unbalanced and compromised by the inclemency of 2012. Hail severely damaged several of their prime vineyards. Batard-Montrachet was reduced down to a nub, while propitious premier crus the calibre of “Chenevottes” was akin to a child being pushed off their bicycle. In Burgundy, I am afraid there are no stabilizers. Still, on September 19 they harvested what they could and bottled everything, including their Chevalier-Montrachet, at the beginning of September. Michel’s son-in-law Michel Coutoux and grandson Mathieu took me through these wines, which seemed to lack the vigor and precision that I found elsewhere and within the domaine’s own wines in previous vintages. I am sure they will be back on form next year. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (707) 299-2600

Tasted blind at Farr Vintners Kumeu/White Burgundy tasting. The 2010 Chassagne Montrachet Champ Gain from Michel Niellon has a lucid silver/straw color. The bouquet is well balanced and quite complex with a light hazelnut and smoke scent developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, quite angular tannin. This is an edgy, almost Muscadet-like Chassagne with a strong marine/saline element dominating the finish. Still youthful, it will need another 2-3 years in bottle.