The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure Roussane—all barrel fermented and aged eight months in new oak—features hints of toast and pencil shavings against a backdrop of white peach, melon and citrus. Medium to full-bodied, it's nicely balanced, with just-right plumpness on the palate, well-judged oak and a long, lingering finish. Tasted blind, I called the drinking window at 2021–2024, but I have updated it to better reflect my experience with the older vintages at the domaine. It might still be conservative.

For the barrel-fermented and aged 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure Roussane, Usseglio blended wine from sandy, north-facing sites with stony, south-facing parcels. It's a tidy, silky-textured number, with pear and pineapple notes accented by hints of toasty oak and vanilla bean. Medium to full-bodied, it's nicely balanced—not too rich or heavy, yet substantial, with plenty of citrusy length on the finish.

Usseglio's 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure Roussanne is all barrel fermented and aged. Toast and vanilla notes dominate this young wine, so stash it in the cellar for a year or two. There's plenty of underlying pineapple fruit, which just needs some time to uncoil and show itself.

Usseglio's 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Pure starts off toasty, with hints of movie popcorn and melon-like fruit. All barrel fermented and aged, it's medium to full-bodied, with hints of honeyed richness but more citrus and pineapple, plus a long, crisp, zesty finish. Nicely done.

I was blown away by the 100% Roussanne 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure Roussanne Blanc, and unfortunately, there’s only 600 cases made. Vibrant, taunt and mineral-driven, with the same mouthwatering salinity found in the base white cuvée, this beauty is medium to full-bodied, impeccably balanced and layered, with vibrant, yet perfectly integrated acidity. It needs 6-12 months in bottle and will drink nicely for 2-4 years, and can keep for decades if you’re so inclined.