The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure Roussane—all barrel fermented and aged eight months in new oak—features hints of toast and pencil shavings against a backdrop of white peach, melon and citrus. Medium to full-bodied, it's nicely balanced, with just-right plumpness on the palate, well-judged oak and a long, lingering finish. Tasted blind, I called the drinking window at 2021–2024, but I have updated it to better reflect my experience with the older vintages at the domaine. It might still be conservative.