Domaine Nicolas's 2006 Fiefs Vendeens Jacques represents the estate's best, barrel-aged Pinot Noir, blended with 15% Cabernet Franc. (The less-successful 2005 - reviewed in issue 172, where I forgot to mention its sub-appellation 'Brem' - was pure Pinot.) A delightful nose of ripe red raspberry, mulberry, grenadine, high-toned maraschino, spice cake, and new leather leads to a palate striking in its combination of sappy cling, viscosity, and cut, underlain by ample but fine-grained tannin. Strong evocations of fruit pits, berry skin, crushed stone, and soy lend a bittersweet and invigorating cast to a finish bursting with lasting flavor. Completely unlike any Pinot I know from elsewhere - but then, how many are grown on schist, much less blended with Cabernet Franc? - I suspect that given this wine's youthful energy after nearly three years in bottle, it will satisfy for at last another 3-5. From south of Nantes, and with views from his vineyards onto the Atlantic, Thierry Michon - an impassioned proponent of biodynamics - is growing some fascinating wines that are bringing recognition to the little known Vendee and its sub-appellation Brem.A Jon-David Headrick Selection (various importers), Asheville, NC; tel. (828) 252 8245

No this is not “red Muscadet”! But it is from a schistic site south of that better-known appellation, in view of the Atlantic, where among others Cabernet Franc and Chenin are grown. The 2005 Fiefs Vendeens Jacques is Domaine Saint Nicolas’ barrel-aged variation on Pinot Noir, and its aromas of raw meat, sour cherry, cherry pit and iodine certainly proclaim its varietal origins. Satisfyingly juicy on the palate, this really pours on both tart but ripe fruit and chalk and iodine minerality in the finish.A Jon-David Headrick Selection (various importers), Carborro, NC; tel. (919) 932-3450