The 2020 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux had only recently finished its malolactic fermentation, so it was one of the more reserved wines in the cellar when I visited. Unfurling in the glass with notes of cherries, wild berries, sweet spices, orange rind and burning embers, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with lively acids and fine but firm tannins that will likely soften with further élevage.

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux unfurls in the glass with aromas of plums and red berries mingled with peonies, orange rind, sweet spices and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's deep and layered, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, saline finish.

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux is a magical wine in the making, wafting from he glass with a profound bouquet of cherries, licorice, exotic spices, rich soil tones and orange rind. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, multidimensional and muscular, with a deep and concentrated score, rich and powdery tannins and a long, succulent finish.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux delivers a superb bouquet of cassis, wild damson, grilled squab, sweet soil tones, licorice and exotic spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with a lavish core of old vine fruit, succulent acids, and fine-grained structuring tannins, concluding with a long and dramatic finish. This cuvée, from seventy-year-old vines, is the insiders' choice for chez Cathiard this year.

The 2014 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru en Orveau has a more complex bouquet than the Aux Reignots, with delineated, mineral-rich blackberry and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is beautifully balanced with very fine tannin, very focused and tensile, almost crystalline on the very structured finish. This is a real vin de garde and may be one of the best expressions of this vineyard produced by the domaine.