The 2021 Marsannay L'Ancestrale is often Pataille's most structured, reserved bottling, and that style, informed by old-vine origins, matches very well with this charming vintage. Offering up aromas of wild berries, peonies, orange rind, violets and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, with sweet tannins, lively acids and a seamless, giving profile.

From Pataille's oldest vines in the lieux-dits of Clos du Roy, Clémengeot and Les Ouzeloy comes the 2017 Marsannay L'Ancestrale, a brilliant effort that unwinds in the glass with aromas of raspberries, plums and cherries mingled with hints of smoked meats, orange rind and rich soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a concentrated core of fruit framed by a muscular chassis of powdery tannin, this will need and reward some bottle age.

The 2016 Marsannay L'Ancestrale offers ripe maraschino, tangerine and tomato vine scents on the nose. There is fine detail here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, moderate depth with dark fruit seeping up toward the finish, a touch of tobacco and graphite lingering on the aftertaste. Fine, although I prefer the 2015 L'Ancestrale by comparison.

The 2015 Marsannay L'Ancestrale has a voluminous bouquet with layer upon layer of blackberry, mulberry, hoisin and pastille-like aromas, just a hint of peppermint emerging with aeration and later a hint of fresh fig that lends a touch of exoticism. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, fine acidity, very well balanced with great depth and vigor on the finish that seems...effortless.

The 2014 Marsannay L'Ancestrale has a very succinct nose at first, but just give it a few swirls of the glass and there is raucous red cherries, orange rind, crushed strawberry and licorice. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin on the entry. There is tangible mineralité here, the touch tingling as if you have just licked limestone; the finish is harmonious but guarding its secrets for those wise enough to age it.