Piron 2010 年份的Morgon Cote de Py ，有 40% 是在大桶中陳釀的，融合了 Javernieres 的果香。散發(fā)著多汁而又濃郁的成熟漿果味，并彌漫著碎石頭味及令人垂涎的咸味，香氣濃郁而持久，令人印象深刻。此酒看起來還不夠成熟（這可能與此酒在我到訪的前幾天才裝瓶有關(guān)）且不夠迷人，應(yīng)在瓶中再陳放一年或更長的時(shí)間。

Assembled in tank (but 50% aged in used barrique), the Piron 2009 Morgon Cote de Py Javernieres smells remarkably like a machine shop with smoky-sweet oil and metal shavings complementing its contingent of blueberry and black raspberry preserves. Heady, haunting evocations of peony evolve as the wine opens, and later linger in the open glass. Strikingly saliva-inducing and almost vibratory, with (despite its confitured richness) a subtly tart berry edge and a lip-smacking, invigorating salinity, the wine’s almost confectionary undertones of dark chocolate and nutmeg are beautifully foiled by it’s lingering sense of graphite and smoky mineral residue. What a thrill this will be to follow for a half dozen or so years – beginning as soon as possible! (Piron elected to blend the tiny amount of 2008 Javernieres on which I reported pre-bottling in issue 184 into his Cote de Py, with a result that – like other of his 2008s covered at that time – lived up to the optimistic end of my projected ratings.) Dominique Piron – for more about whom consult my report in issue 184 – did not begin harvesting his 2009s until September 7 and then worked at it for two weeks (even though his crop was radically reduced by the hail that afflicted nearly every commune in which he grows grapes). Despite the warm weather and reduced crop, only a few of Piron’s individual lots – and none of his finished blends – exceeded 14% alcohol. He segregated an unprecedented number of different Morgons from 2009, but this isn’t merely a case of his next-door neighbor Jean-Marc Burgaud’s practices rubbing off: the distinctive quality of Piron’s five cuvees justifies their number – indeed, this represents far and away the finest Piron collection I have tasted (granting that the assembled wines were still all in tank when I visited in April) and a confirmation that this is among the region’s outstanding, top value-delivering addresses.Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079

This spice-driven red shows an aromatic range of garrigue, rose petal, sandalwood and nutmeg notes accenting the spiced plum and black cherry fruit flavors. Well-meshed, with lightly chewy tannins and bright acidity. Very stylish. Drink now through 2013. 50 cases imported. -AN