Unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp white peach, grapefruit pith, white flowers and subtle hints of orange blossom, the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny is medium to full-bodied, tensile and incisive, with good concentration at the core, racy acids and a long finish with good grip. This is one of the more precise and less fleshy 2017s from Sauzet this year, showing its higher-altitude origins, and that marks it out as a particular success.

The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny has a more convincing bouquet than the Champ Gain at this stage, demonstrating better harmony and more lifted green apple and blackcurrant leaf notes. The palate is very well balanced with orange pith and citrus lemon on the entry. This builds nicely in the mouth and the finish exhibits fine cohesion and sappiness. This is a very commendable, delicious follow-up to the impressive 2015 last year.

The 2015 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny has a lively, granitic, slightly smoke-scented bouquet that delivers a little more energy compared to the Champs Gain. The palate is fresh and vibrant with crisp acidity, plenty of slate-tinged citrus fruit with a composed, very focused finish that fans out with confidence. This is a great Puligny from Beno?t and it comes highly recommended.

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny (whose paltry 100 liters of 2012 was blended into the village cru last year) has an attractive bouquet with delicate touches of orange blossom and citrus peel, the mineral scents only revealed after some encouragement. The palate is well balanced with touches of apricot and quince on the entry. The acidity is nicely judged and there is more weight and concentration on the finish compared to the la Garenne. Very fine but one I would broach before its fellow premier crus.

A quintessential 2010, the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Hameau De Blagny is rich, voluptuous and deeply expressive. It boasts tons of fruit and equally intense acidity. Slate, flint and smoke are layered into the pointed, vibrant finish. This needs at least another year or two to soften, but it is quite well put together today. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. I have to admit I was a bit perplexed by these 2010s from Sauzet. A number of wines were massively reduced and/or heavily sulfured to a degree I did not encounter at any other property I visited. The best selections in the lineup are quite strong, which suggests some of those elements may dissipate over time as the wines integrate, but at the same time, I can only report what is in the glass, and the reality is that some of the wines in this lineup are very awkward at this stage. I suggest readers taste the Sauzet 2010s before making any major commitments. The 2010 harvest started on September 17th. Yields were closer to normal in the village wines, but down by as much as 35% in the premier and grand crus. The wines spent 12 months in oak, 25-35% new for the premier crus, and 35% new for the grand crus, followed by six months in tank. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802