By outside appearances, this is an important wine packaged in a heavy glass bottle and closed with a hand-applied wax capsule. The 2012 Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Antica Chiusina exhibits a dark and richly saturated appearance. The wine is layered and endowed with thick aromatic layering. Bold black fruit is followed by fruity softness and sweet cherry that comes from the warm vintage. Drink this wine within the next 10 years.

The 2007 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigneto Antica Chiusina is a gorgeous, exotic wine. Dark red cherries, spices, menthol and licorice burst from the glass in this sexy Vino Nobile. The French oak is present, but nicely balanced by the richness of the fruit. Crushed flowers, licorice and a hint of tobacco are layered into the soft, caressing finish. The Antica Chiusina is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino aged 12 months in French oak and 12 months in bottle prior to release. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella is now the man in charge at Fattoria del Cerro and all of the SAI Agricola properties, which includes La Poderina in Montalcino. Although the wines could use a little more polish, these seem like assignments that require a gentle guide rather than a total revolution. If anything these wines need less, not more. The quality of the fruit of the entry-level wines suggests the raw materials are first-rate. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The single-vineyard 2006 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigneto Antica Chiusina is 90% Prugnolo Gentile 10% Colorino that spent 18 months in French oak barrels followed by a further 12 months in bottle. Layers of wild cherries, flowers, sweet spices and leather flow effortlessly from this textured, fragrant and impeccably balanced red. Another year or two in bottle will help the tannins soften, but the wine’s pedigree is apparent even at this stage. I especially like the freshness and vibrancy of the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. The biggest change at Fattoria del Cerro is the recent arrival of consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The single-vineyard 2005 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigneto Antica Chiusina literally sparkles on the palate with vibrant black cherries, violets, minerals and spices, showing remarkable depth and clarity, qualities that were hard to come by in this vintage. The wine’s density carries through all the way to the harmonious finish. This is another winner from Fattoria del Cerro. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Fattoria del Cerro is an excellent source for juicy wines from Montepulciano. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Fattoria del Cerro’s single-vineyard 2004 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigneto Antica Chiusina is 90% Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) and 10% Colorino that spent two years in French oak. This medium-bodied wine offers superb density and harmony, its dark fruit beautifully married to the oak, with notes of spices and new leather that emerge over time. Finessed tannins round out the long, satisfying finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. This a gorgeous set of wines from Fattoria del Cerro and oenologist Lorenzo Landi. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200