Comm. G.B. Burlotto Monvigliero Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

G.B.布洛托酒莊蒙維格里巴羅洛紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1056

This wine feels like a delicate whisper in the ear that tickles and taunts but gets its message across. The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2019 Barolo Monvigliero definitely spoke to me thanks to its immediate complexity that transcends wild strawberry, aromatic herb, white pepper, orange peel, hazelnut, truffle essence, autumnal leaf, cinnamon and pencil shaving. I could go on. The first vintage made was 1982, and Monvigliero famously sees whole cluster fruit to add to those spicy and herbaceous aromas that are so delicate and fleeting. Fabio Alessandria's other important Barolos, like Castelletto and Acclivi, are made with destemmed grapes, but whole cluster fermentation fits in with the characteristics of the Monvigliero cru. Fabio explains that the use of full bunches is not about gaining structural power per se; it's about obtaining complexity. The 2019 vintage is all about energy and tension, and although the nature of the vintage is a bit closed in its youth, this wine is poised for long aging.

Within the context of this set of new releases from Comm. G.B. Burlotto, this wine stands far apart. The 2018 Barolo Monvigliero is linear and light, but it also shows good fruit weight. This is exactly the classic duality of Monvigliero (a village that traditionally incorporates whole clusters in fermentation). Spice, cola, licorice, grilled herb and dried cherry appear to lift over a fine and delicately tapered mouthfeel.

The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero opens to a fine and light ruby color. This whole-cluster wine is elegant from all sides no matter how you approach it. To the bouquet, it offers smooth berry and spice, with lots of blue flower, dried lavender and lilac. A second aromatic layer centers on dry stone, limestone and some crushed white pepper. To the palate, it shows fine but tight tannins that are still nervous, like a closed fist. What I find most interesting about this warm-vintage expression from Monvigliero is that although the floral imprint is intact, the bouquet is broad enough to make room for spice, cherry and grilled herb. It feels like this bouquet operates on a bigger platform in 2017, but it requires patience nonetheless. Production is 7,500 bottles.

Made with whole-cluster fermentation, the Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2016 Barolo Monvigliero opens to distinctive intensity with floral notes backed by forest berry and bramble. Including the grape stems in fermentation imparts a slightly herbaceous character with eucalyptus and balsam herb. I also pick up on some freshly milled white pepper that reminds me of the Nebbiolo-adjacent Pelaverga grape that is also commonly planted in Verduno. The wine opens slowly to reveal grilled herbs, toasted chia seed and pistachio nut. More than obvious fruit, the core of the wine offers wild rose, lavender and pressed flowers. Production is approximately 8,000 bottles.

I mentioned that slightly wild side of Verduno in a previous review for Comm. G.B. Burlotto. For further clarity on this point, put your nose into the beautiful 2015 Barolo Monvigliero. This is a subdued and graceful wine that grows in intensity the longer it stays in the glass. The wine offers blue flower aromas with violets, wild rose, cumin seed, saffron and crushed mineral. This wine plays its best cards when you focus on the smallest details, and then suddenly, those tiny brush strokes explode into a big-picture, panoramic view of one of the most celebrated vineyard sites in Barolo.