The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly wafts from the glass with aromas of white flowers, crisp stone fruit, honeycomb, orange oil and freshly baked bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping palate that's racy and precise, combining the aromatic expression and textural attack characteristic of its sunny exposition with the tension and cut appropriate to this high-altitude, stony site.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly unwinds in the glass to reveal aromas of crisp stone fruit, fresh bread, dried white flowers and wet stones, framed by a discreet touch of youthful reduction. Medium to full-bodied and ample yet chiseled, it's taut and mineral, with deep reserves of concentration and a long, saline finish.

Ample and demonstrative when I tasted it from barrel, Lamy's 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly has tightened up after bottling. Unwinding in the glass with notes of orange oil, nutmeg, pear and toasted bread, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, with a coiled and concentrated core, tangy acids and a long, saline finish. The only missing ingredient is time.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is also very promising, delivering scents of peach, white flowers, fresh hazelnuts, crushed rocks and smoke. Medium to full-bodied and racy, it's saline and precise, with plenty of controlled mid-palate amplitude and a long, mineral finish.

The 2016 Saint Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly has a fresh, quite stony bouquet with red apples, cold slate and subtle smoky scents—a more understated nose but clean and precise. The palate is well balanced with fresh acidity and good weight, yet it clams up towards the finish and at this stage, does not deliver the riveting complexity and spine-tingling mineralité of recent vintages. Let’s see how this performs once in bottle. It is a very good Saint-Aubin, but maybe it can strive for even more once in bottle.